By Yedida Kalfon Stillman
Это хорошо иллюстрированное издание, представляет собой историческое и этнографическое исследование одного важного аспекта арабской и исламской материальной культуры - одежды. Описывается развитие и трансформация платья за прошедшие 1400 лет в большей части исламского мира: на Ближнем Востоке, Северной Африке, и в средневековой исламской Испании. Платье - часть исламской системы облачений, рассматриваемой в книге в рамках контекста социальных, религиозных, эстетических и политических тенденций каждого исторического периода.
В дополнение к пяти историческим главам, три главы посвящены главным темам истории арабского костюма - кодексу платья для не-мусульман, важному социально-экономическому и политическому значению роскошных тканей и предметов почётной одежды, и, наиболее известным, но часто неправильно истолковываемым, скрывающим элементам одеяния.Образцы сканов:
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Extra info for Arab Dress: A Short History: From the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times
The burda or burd was a wrap of striped woollen cloth produced in the Yemen. The Prophet wore a Najr§nÊ burd with a wide border. He gave one such mantle of his to the poet Ka#b b. Zuhayr which became legendary. The distinction between fabric and garment is often not clear. The Èibara was a striped garment similar to the burd, and according to the traditionalist Anas (died ca. 23 Yet we also read of Èibara garments, and lii, 15. The Prophet wearing his wife’s mirã: Muslim, ‘aÈÊÈ, Kit§b Fa·§"il al-‘aÈ§ba, ÈadÊth 27 and elsewhere.
The Talmud specifically mentions that the sandals worn by the Arabs are “close-fitting” (Tractate Yevamot, 102a) and that they “are knotted tightly by the shoemakers” (Tractate Shabbat, 112a). The Time of the Prophet and Early Islam The fashion of dress of the earliest Muslim community was on the whole an extension of the preceding period, with certain modifications for the new moral sensibilities engendered by Islam. Functionalism was now tempered by ideology. It is interesting to observe that many of the garments worn by the Prophet and his contemporaries 7 A.
Georg Jacob has suggested that the later turban is a synthesis of Arab and Persian styles. , lxi. 25, 51. Georg Jacob, Altarabisches Beduinenleben: nach den Quellen geschildert (Mayer and Müller: Berlin 1897), p. 237. Yedida K. Stillman, “The Medieval Islamic Vestimentary System: Evolution and Consolidation,” in Kommunikation zwischen Orient und Okzident Alltag und Sachkultur (Österreichischen Akademie der Wissenschaften: Vienna, 1994), pp. 271-305; idem, “Lib§s,” EI 2 V, pp. 732-33 and 747. 29 pre-islamic arabia and the early umma 17 ’l-Êm§n).
Arab Dress: A Short History: From the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times by Yedida Kalfon Stillman